Our BuddyBug Project

[andeez01]

I checked this when I got the motor and it was right. (99% sure) I will check again today. I know that the rotor point correctly at TDC. The wires are not on opposite side of the distributor. I will check all of this today.

I knew buggyman would have another angle on this problem. I thought I was cool for a second.

[Kimbo]

.....I knew buggyman would have another angle on this problem. I thought I was cool for a second.

Hey, don't worry about that, Buggyman is that cool he'd make the Fonz look hot 'n sweaty !!

[buggyman]

 
"Buggyman is that cool he'd make the Fonz look hot 'n sweaty !!"
Ayyyyyyy!

 

Still waitin' for a clue to a conclusion which leads to a final solution Kimbo ,just pointin' up what possibly could be wrong to look for ,still lookin' for that last 1% verification "(99% sure)" Andy that the dizzy drive is in correctly which might lead to other possibilities to explore.
 

[andeez01]

"Buggyman is that cool he'd make the Fonz look hot 'n sweaty !!"
Ayyyyyyy!

 

Still waitin' for a clue to a conclusion which leads to a final solution Kimbo ,just pointin' up what possibly could be wrong to look for ,still lookin' for that last 1% verification "(99% sure)" Andy that the dizzy drive is in correctly which might lead to other possibilities to explore.
 

Sorry. It rained yesterday and with the car in the garage there is far less room to get around to the back. Will be looking tonight!

[Kimbo]

Still waitin' for a clue to a conclusion which leads to a final solution Kimbo

I hear ya Buggyman - I still struggle with the "why won't this bolt go in?", "why ?, coz it's the wrong size, dummy" situations, so am constantly amazed at what you manage to come up with as answers - and looking at that pic of you with the plaid shorts wearing Tom Hanks lookalike, the collar's turned up, the hair's slicked back........, you ARE the Fonz

[andeez01]

Sorry folks.... Been out of the loop for a few days but man do I have a weird one for you. I checked and rechecked this too but to my amazement the timing was 20 degrees btdc at 800 rpms, 38 at 3000 rpms. The discrepency between the cylinders was still there too. If I tried timing it to 10 or less the engine died. I am having a hard time figuring how this is possible. I considered the pulley being printed incorrectly. It is correct. I considered the cam being off a tooth. That is fine too.

After beating my head against the wall and making some calls and troubleshooting I put the old dizzy in and installed the pertronix unit and timed it to 10 degrees at 800 rpm idle. It advances to 32 degrees at 3000 rpms.  I still have the hesitation between 1500 and 2000 rpms in acceleration but otherwise running fine.

I noticed too when adjusting the timing on the old dizzy that the light would jump around. And when running up the rpms the advance goes up to about 40 and settles back to 32. Is this right or is the dizzy bad.   

So my thinking is get a new dizzy. I am considering this one.
http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1006
Any comments?

[KILLIAN88]

Ya, know....... IDK Who ya R ? Ya gotta like that.

     Killian88

                                     

[Rob 57 Oval (Talon)]

Ya, know....... IDK Who ya R ? Ya gotta like that.

     Killian88

                                    

I don't get that reply killian  

[buggyman]

 
Dayo Andy ,thought you got swept away by the mean weather machine that's been churnin' away over there .
"Any comments?"
So your #1 plug wire on the dizzy+the notch on the dizzy body+the center of the rotor tip,with both #1cyl valves & #2cyl intake valve closed is placed here

pointing between the fuel pump & pulley,right ?
"but man do I have a weird one for you...that the light would jump around. And when running up the rpms the advance goes up to about 40 and settles back to 32. Is this right or is the dizzy bad?"
Probably not,there's a couple of things to take a cloooooser look at though .

Remove the nut&washer(#'s10&9)holding the dizzy clamp in place without loosening the dizzy from the clamp(nut #12).
Using a pocket metric ruler accurately measure the distance between the bottom face of the clamp & the bottom face of the dizzy's internal drive shaft(don't include the length of the 2 tabs which engage with the dizzy drive gear still in the engine ).
Now measure the distance between the top of the hole in the case & the top of the dizzy drive gear(#7)here:

If the difference between those 2 measurements is more than say 0 to ~1/8mm then you need to remove & shim up(#9) the dizzy drive gear to take up that difference,as close to zero clearance as possible is preferred as long as the dizzy & it's clamp still set fully down flush with the top of the opening in the case .
Is (#8) the tension spring in place which helps prevent the dizzy drive gear from jumping up & changing the drive ratio between that gear & the crankshaft gear on acceleration?
There's a couple of other things inside the dizzy itself to check/maybe modify before replacing it,I'm just flat outta time tonight to get into those,there is a solution though,we'll find it .
 

[andeez01]

"thought you got swept away by the mean weather machine that's been churnin' away over there"
No weather problems here. We have about a week of dry air, blue skies, and mid 70's. It's been like that for about 3 weeks now.
"So your #1 plug wire on the dizzy+the notch on the dizzy body+the center of the rotor tip,with both #1cyl valves & #2cyl intake valve closed is placed here"
No. It's actually pointing straight up at the fuel pump (90 degree angle with the crank).

"but man do I have a weird one for you...that the light would jump around. And when running up the rpms the advance goes up to about 40 and settles back to 32. Is this right or is the dizzy bad?"
Probably not,there's a couple of things to take a cloooooser look at though .

Remove the nut&washer(#'s10&9)holding the dizzy clamp in place without loosening the dizzy from the clamp(nut #12).
Using a pocket metric ruler accurately measure the distance between the bottom face of the clamp & the bottom face of the dizzy's internal drive shaft(don't include the length of the 2 tabs which engage with the dizzy drive gear still in the engine ).
Now measure the distance between the top of the hole in the case & the top of the dizzy drive gear(#7)here:

If the difference between those 2 measurements is more than say 0 to ~1/8mm then you need to remove & shim up(#9) the dizzy drive gear to take up that difference,as close to zero clearance as possible is preferred as long as the dizzy & it's clamp still set fully down flush with the top of the opening in the case .
Is (#8) the tension spring in place which helps prevent the dizzy drive gear from jumping up & changing the drive ratio between that gear & the crankshaft gear on acceleration?
There's a couple of other things inside the dizzy itself to check/maybe modify before replacing it,I'm just flat outta time tonight to get into those,there is a solution though,we'll find it .
 
[/quote]

I'll be checking this tonight. I really hope we narrow this down. I think I will probably end up buying dual carbs because I am not going to be happy ill it runs its best. It really runs kind of ruff up to about 2200 rpms in each gear. When it reaches this level it smooths out and runs really strong.

[buggyman]

 
"No weather problems here...."
Achhh!,that's right,you're on the other side of the Apps outta tornado alley .

"No. It's actually pointing straight up at the fuel pump (90 degree angle with the crank)."
Sounds like a tooth or 2 off counterclockwise on the dizzy drive gear,the Q is whether or not it's that tooth or 2 off +180deg out making you run #1 on the #3 lobe of the dizzy cam .

As promised "There's a couple of other things inside the dizzy itself to check/maybe modify before replacing it "
"to my amazement the timing was 20 degrees btdc at 800 rpms, 38 at 3000 rpms....It really runs kind of ruff up to about 2200 rpms in each gear. When it reaches this level it smooths out and runs really strong."
Now this does sound like the dizzy itself if the drive gear is installed high & tight wear can occur in several places:bushings-shafts-spring(s),it's pretty much repairable & even customizeable .
If the upper or lower shafts themselves are worn(wobbling around against each other &/or the dizzy body side to side in any direction)then you have to replace the dizzy .
I had pretty much the same symptoms you're describing back ~1984 & it just turned out to be the advance spring .
Remove the point plate to see the 2 advance weights at the bottom of the dizzy housing,is there only one spring between the shaft & one weight?,if so,cannibalize the other dizzy's spring & add it to the other weight .
What this does is slow down your advance curve a little but more importantly stabilizes it,smoooths it out so it's not hunting around in transition ,your full & static advances are easier to determine & set(& remain the same on both) & the advance doesn't overrun the carb's ability to deliver fuel in transition .
Basicly all you need is one flat edged screwdriver & a pair of needlenose pliers,here's links :
http://www.glenn-ring.com/010/
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/167174-bosch-0-231-129-010-dist-vw.html
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4199662
from
http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&gbv=2&tbs=isch:1&q=bosch+009+advance+weights&sa=N&start=0&ndsp=18
 

[andeez01]

It's been a while. I haven't fixed my dizzy problem yet but will get a chance next week. In the interim, Buddy's unit returned this week and we were invited to display the car in the hangar. It was alot of fun and I got pictures of the bug with the planes!!!!

Check it out......

[andeez01]

Here is a video (sorry for the terrible quality) I will try to get a better one.
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20BBoo_vFFI" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20BBoo_vFFI</a>

[Rob 57 Oval (Talon)]

Too Cool!!!   

[Kimbo]

Very nice - love the nose-on pic - looks like the roof lights are on the plane.

[VIN]

very cool, great job on the car

[ncbuggy]

Great job on the Baja & really cool pictures!  

I agree with Kimbo, really cool photo  


Semper Fi  


Dano  

[lemorris]

very cool

[andeez01]

Been real busy folks, but decided to drop by. Here is a video. By the way, I took my 009 dizzy apart and sure enough, one of the springs was gone. I got both of the springs out of the bad one so they matched and put them in. It fixed alot but still want those dual weber icts.
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3y-Mpiq6vI" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3y-Mpiq6vI</a>

[Mike9300]

Sweet looks and sounds great,


Nice vid

 

[buggyman]

 
"Been real busy folks"
Same thing here Andy ,but "busy" as opposed to the alternative is nice nowadays .

"I got both of the springs out of the bad one so they matched and put them in-It fixed alot"
When I added my 2nd spring I left the original 009 one there on the primary weight & added in a mismatched one on the secondary weight from an 010,the upshot is that you can mix & match springs from dizzy type to type to change the overall characteristics of the advance curve-more or less in now or more or less in later ,that was the basis of "...& even customizeable" .
Total throw of the weights remains the same because they're physicly limited by design ,what I found was that putting the stronger of the 2 mismatched springs on the primary weight & adding the weaker one to the secondary weight didn't neccesarily change the overall running characteristics of the 009,it just stabilized it directly off idle & upon sudden acceleration from one RPM range to another making the results expected more consistant/reliable in varying terrains/conditions .
 

[andeez01]

Thanks Buggyman. I am going to do some more experimenting in a week or so. Get this... The wife suggested I buy the dual carbs!    I couldn't believe it. They are on the way. I got the weber ICTs any suggestions on the jetting for these? Just a reminder - It's a 1776 Mofoco "streetwise" engine heads (042) 40x35.5. Don't know the cam.

[Mike9300]

"Been real busy folks"
Same thing here Andy ,but "busy" as opposed to the alternative is nice nowadays .

"I got both of the springs out of the bad one so they matched and put them in-It fixed alot"
When I added my 2nd spring I left the original 009 one there on the primary weight & added in a mismatched one on the secondary weight from an 010,the upshot is that you can mix & match springs from dizzy type to type to change the overall characteristics of the advance curve-more or less in now or more or less in later ,that was the basis of "...& even customizeable" .
Total throw of the weights remains the same because they're physicly limited by design ,what I found was that putting the stronger of the 2 mismatched springs on the primary weight & adding the weaker one to the secondary weight didn't neccesarily change the overall running characteristics of the 009,it just stabilized it directly off idle & upon sudden acceleration from one RPM range to another making the results expected more consistant/reliable in varying terrains/conditions .
 

Really, so I looked over a 009 (extra) one a friend has and only one spring, they should have 2 right?

[buggyman]

 
"I got the weber ICTs any suggestions on the jetting for these? Just a reminder - It's a 1776 Mofoco "streetwise" engine heads (042) 40x35.5. Don't know the cam."
Jetting carbs is verrrry subjective to the specific application that they're applied to Andy as Mike found out ,so only a starting range can be suggested,I'd start with the Redline Conversion with the larger venturis so as to better match your larger engine than what these were pretty much intended for as an adaptation for the 1600-1700cc range otherwise it'll run outta breath at relatively low R's compared to what the engine is most likely capable of delivering:
ICH/ICT
 
34 ICH 15290.020
 25
 4.5
 130
 F6
 150
 57
 50
 40(1)
 175
 6.5/13
 Special Applications
 
34 ICT 15290.035
 29
 4.5
 130
 F78
 160
 50
 50
 40(1)
 175
 6.5/13
 Redline Inc. Conversion
from
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/jets.html
from
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=ICT+jetting&btnG=Search&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai= 
Noteable differences in the settings are shown in the Weber Tech Manual for their original application on Euro based Chrysler & Simca cars:
28 venturis
145 mains
F20 emulsions
as other options to consider ,the #1 thing that troubles me is the Mofoco "Special Hydraulic Cam"
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Mofoco+%22streetwise%22+engine&btnG=Search&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=
  & why they wouldn't provide specs on it ,that along with everything else in the engine determines which range of carb/venturi size to feed it properly,there is a(yes,I know! ,here comes the word... )backdoor procedure to check it out though which might have to be used if everything else doesn't seem to fall in place carbwise as it should .

"Really..."
Really Mike ,009's come with 1 spring on the primary advance weight,the secondary weight has a provision for a spring,so if that 1 spring isn't up to snuff or you throw more HP at it the secondary weight kinda floats around like a wet noodle in the breeze between acceleration & deceleration under real world conditions,all of the components from the crankshaft up & out have to sing along like a well practiced choir .
 

[madrider]

Headlights installed


Look what Andrea found! A rare site in eastern NC


She loves to dig in salvage yards and she found these pristine doors! No rot and the hinges are in perfect condition


Ever see a tree growing through a ghia?


This is a mustang just out of the paint booth by the guy doing our paint.

Wow, what a find in Eastern NC.  I also live in Eastern NC  (just outside of Greenville) and would love to know where this junk yard is at.  I know there is a older guy between New Bern and Jacksonville on 17 but that is the only one I know about.  Could you let me in on the honey hole?