Lets get started, we have our new heavy duty rocker shafts and 1.25 ratio rockers.
Now we need to assemble them.

Slide the spacer on to the shaft and center it. Then a rocker shim needs to go on each side. 

Then slide on a rocker on each side of the shims. Then another shim goes on each side.

Now we will put our rocker pedestals on the outside of the rockers. Then (you guessed it) another shim goes on out side of the pedestals.

The last two rockers go on next. At each end of the shaft you have a shim then the thick washer a thin washer and the screw in that order.

Do not tighten the end screws yet. We then installed the ball style adjusters into the rockers. Always make sure the flat part of adjuster is facing out. 

Now to the heads, we put our push rods down the push rod tubes. Then the rubber o-rings go on to the rocker studs.

We determined we needed a .060 shim under the rocker shafts to get the correct rocker geometry. Next we put the rocker shafts on to the studs and triple checked that we did not have to much play in the rockers arms. We made sure the ends of the rocker shafts were tightened down. If you do end up with to much play, you can use more shims were necessary.

Since we are using Empi bolt on valve covers, we have to use there special nuts to hold down the rocker arms. The rocker shafts need to be torqued to 18 lbs. Next we are going to set the valves. This is to ensure the proper spacing between the valve adjusters and the valve. Jackson follows the firing order of the engine(1 - 4 - 3 -2) when setting valves. He shared with me that other people have there own way of doing this procedure. We follow Jackson's way.

Using a feeler gauge we are going to set the valves. We are going to start with the number one cylinder at Top Dead Center (TDC) This means that both the intake and exhaust valves are closed and you will see that number two's exhaust valve is starting to open. Jackson uses the .006 feeler gauge when setting the valves. Put the feeler gauge between the adjuster and the valve tip. Screw in the adjuster until the feeler gauge slides firmly between the two. Then lock the adjuster jam nuts so the adjuster won't move. Then rotate the crank pulley one half turn to Bottom Dead Center (BDC) and know you are ready to adjust number 4. 

We are done adjusting the valve and we are going to put on our bolt on valve covers. These covers come with a rubber cork/mix gasket that seem to seal very well. This kit has a bolt, washer and 0-ring that needs to go in that order. Then they are tightened down.

If we had an oil pump installed, we would have a complete long block.

First we had to use longer oil pump studs since the stock ones were to short for a heavy duty oil pump. Then we disassembled our oil pump. Use a small amount of regular Permatex on the first gasket then insert just the pump housing into the case.

Then the gears were put in top gear first. Use a small amount of oil on the gears to help them slide in. Next is the oil pump cover gasket, again a small amount of regular Permatex.

Now put on the oil pump cover and torque the nuts down to 14 lbs.