This engine as stated in earlier pages was align bored .020 oversized and had the thrust cut. This means that we will have to install bearings that are .020 larger in size to fit perfectly. The first bearing we will install is the thrust bearing that is at the rear of the engine. 

In the photo above you can see the thrust cut and our bearing is to large and needs to be cut down.

We have put the bearing on our lathe and have measured it with a micrometer. We also measured the case thrust and found it to be .843 thousands. So we need to make sure the inside of the bearing is also .843 thousands.

We are only going to cut the outer side of the bearing. 

Now both the case and the bearing are the same size and the bearing slides in to place.  

We need to put our dowel pins in place. (1 side of the case has 4 pin holes and the other side only has 1) The side we are working with has 4. No lubricant goes underneath the bearing, just press it in place do not force the bearing to fit. The only split bearing goes in to the center journal.   

Once you have all the bearings in place, gently set you crankshaft in the bearing journals. Put a small amount veiner slidin lubricant on the center split bearing. Make sure the dowel pin go into the dowel pin holes. Turn the crankshaft over slowly to make sure it is not binding. 

We are then going to put the top half of the case on an torque down to specs 25lbs. Again we are going to ensure the crank moves freely with out any binding. 

If you notice any biding or tight spots, start over until everything is perfect. Our crankshaft moved very smoothly. Now we are going to bolt the cam gear on to our Engle W110 cam with three cam bolts. There is two things you have to make line up. 

When the indent on the cam gear is straight up, the last cam lobe must be straight down. We are also using Double thrust cam bearings even though case was not designed for them. Jackson had to file down one of the tangs on the front cam thrust bearing. 

Once that was done the others just press in to place. Then use a small amount of lube on the cam bearings before you rest your cam in place.

Now we are going to index our cam. You will notice two small indents on your cam gear that is on the crankshaft and one small indent on the larger cam gear on the cam. The indent on the cam gear need to go in between the two on the smaller cam gear on the crankshaft. Easy for you to say.

Again we are going to put the top case half back on and re-torque the case back to 25lbs and make sure every thing is rotating well. If it is not, the you know that the problem was with the cam since the crank moved fine. This engine is really coming along well. 

Now we have to put in our Scat Lifter. For the case half on the stand, we just put a small amount of oil on each lifter and slide them into place. For the other case half we need to use Lifter retaining clips. These clips will make it so the lifters will not fall out when you turn the case over.

With the case on it's side, insert the two rear lifters. From the outside of the case, squeeze the retaining clip and insert it into the two lifters. Do the same process to the front two lifters. 

Again we will set the case together to ensure there is still not any binding. 

Now we need to put our studs in the case. We have to pull the Crankshaft and cam back out. In our 8mm stud kit there are 3 lengths of studs (9-Long, 3-Medium and 4-Short) The bottom row get long studs and the top outside of the number 3 cylinder. Inside top get the 4 short studs. The top outside of cylinder numbers 1, 2, and 4 take the 3 medium length studs. The ends of each stud will have a small amount of red lock tight put on them.

First the bottom eight studs are put in. These are double nutted and driven in  with an air ratchet until tight. Then the nuts are removed.

This process is repeated until all the studs are in place. 

The crankshaft and camshaft is reinstalled. Our Engle 110 cam comes with Redline synthetic assembly lube. On there directions, it states to lube the bottom of the lifters and the cam lobes with the lube provided.

The last to put in is the cam plug. Jackson suggests to use a small amount of ultra gray Permatex around the cam plug. Ultra gray Permatex is also lightly spread around the outer rim of one case as seen in the photo above. This is a very thin layer so when the case halves are put back together and torqued, we do not want any to seep in to the inner part of the case.

Jackson also suggests using Permatex around all the studs that are below the oil line. Again we are using a very small amount.

Once we have our 6 large 19mm nuts on we will torque them to 25 lbs. The small 13mm nuts are torqued to 14 lbs. Our engine still turns over very well. 

There are three places where you have bolts that hold the case together. At the bottom on each end and the center top of the case.

We now have to turn the engine upside down so we can finish the oil sump. Make sure you have all 6 studs and they are tight. Put the first paper gasket on and make sure it sits flat.

Now we will put in the oil screen on and the 2nd paper gasket. We then put on a Billet oil sump cover. There are 6 small copper washers that go on to the studs. I know what your saying, "If my friends come over and want to look at the bottom of my engine they will be way jealous!" Actually we have not had any problems with leaking from drain plates.